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    Cover of TRAINING FOR THE NEW ALPINISM

    TRAINING FOR THE NEW ALPINISM

    Steve House · 2014

    Applying training practices from other endurance sports, the authors demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance. They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances, translating training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal.--Publisher.

    Food, Travel & Lifestyle
    Open LibraryAmazon
    Stats for nerds
    3recommend
    7mentions
    7people
    2014–2022years
    43% recommend57% neutral

    Mentions per year

    201420152016201720182019202020212022

    What Hacker News says

    1. CobaltFireSep 2021
      One thing I don't see addressed here that is critically important is injury prevention, specifically as part of your workout plan. Getting injured will derail you (in some cases permanently), and I've dealt with that myself.

      Climbing was recommended here, and I think that's a great idea. Hiking is usually a better idea for those just starting out though.

      Look into Training for the New Alpinism and Training for the Uphill Athlete. The core tenets of these are Injury Prevention and Endurance training, not pure strength. This is remarkably similar to how special forces train. The basic idea is that you do a long, easy introduction, then strength building, then endurance. This is a 6-12 month cycle with a goal you target at the end. Workouts are made up of some long, low effort (Zone 1, so you barely feel winded) workouts that end up being walks for those out of shape, and one high effort jog/run type workout, with a couple strength days a week. None of this should be difficult; it's the volume that makes it so. One critical note: your cardio can be whatever aims towards your goal, whether that's running, rucking (hiking with weight on), swimming, biking, etc.

      I'm actually preparing to start a cycle myself after some life events. I'm by no means an expert, but this system has worked for me.

      Here's a training spreadsheet; feel free to copy it. I got it off of a forum a while back, so I can't easily give credit, but I did not make it so I can't take credit.

      https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1zlIF6sCvO4je1YfXohIF...

      I use TrainingPeaks to track my actual data and have found that being able to parse my own data and do analysis has helped immensely. Also, Garmin Running Dynamics changed my running for the better, once I knew what the heck to DO with the data.

      thread
    2. ip26Apr 2019
      Mountains, perhaps thanks to summit fever, really seduces people into overreaching, and cover up the clues at the same time. "I got to the summit, so it's all good!" you think.

      I really can't recommend "Training For the New Alpinism" enough. It really disabused me of that notion, and after a year or two of conscientious work I can hike the same trails with a smile & easy breathing, faster than I once could dripping sweat & suffering.

      A sport heart rate monitor is also extremely valuable.

      thread
    3. irvMay 2014
      That Marc Twight article appears in the recently published book "Training for the new alpinism" by Steve House. Seriously recommended.
      thread
    4. kritikoNov 2022
      Have you actually tested your max heart rate? I work out with a HRM for Zone 2, but I'm just going off of Polar's zones.

      From what I understand going more in depth requires either maxing out your HR (Steve House describes how you can do this in Training for the New Alpinism - basically sprinting uphill until you collapse, seems really unpleasant) or doing lactate testing in a lab.

      thread
    5. evandevMay 2019
      Speaking from my personal experience to counter this, I run in the mornings up to 1 hour on an empty stomach. While I don't follow one diet, a larger portion of my food is carb based.

      I follow TFTNA (Training for the New Alpinism) and Uphill Athlete (Steve/Scott's new book) training regiments that Parent mentions.

      They do talk about retooling your body to use fat reserves more than carbs. While I'm sure the evidence shows that keto diet might make this switch faster and easier, someone on a non-keto diet (carb based) can also do this.

      thread
    6. ellen53oJan 2016
      Wow, I didn't even know this exists -- which is surprising because I just finished reading "Training for the New Alpinism" and am reviewing a number of climbing books.
      thread

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